Merapu and Pasola Festival West Sumba, Indonesia part 2 Marapu is characterized by ancestor worship and balance or dualism About 35% of Sumbanese claim Marapu as their religion Though Sumba is now listed as majority Christian, most still follow Marapu traditions Marapu, remains the guiding force in Sumbanese culture. There are regional variations in practices Ceremonies and rituals are numerous These mark birth through marriage and death; the building of traditional houses to yearly planting cycles Betel (sirih pinang) is an integral part of many rites and ceremonies Rato (ceremonial figures) preside over these occasions using special ritual language (rhyming couplets
The Pasola Harvest Festival
Merapu and Pasola Festival West Sumba, Indonesia part 2. No one knows when the ritual began,Performed in four locations in West Sumba in February and March. Festival coincides with the appearance of the nyale sea worm which is used to foretell the harvest, It is a mock battle between two or more villages.Hola, or sola (sticks) are thrown like spears by men while on horseback
The result of the Pasola also foretells the harvest. The ceremony is overseen by rato adat (ceremonial figures who know the rules)
It all starts with the nyale
Nyale sea worms wash up on the south and west coasts of West Sumba in February and March each year This time is a transition between the wet and dry seasons when seeds are planted. Rato watch for them and make offerings to ancestral spirits.
Fishing is forbidden at this time The results are ‘read’ and correspond with the results of the coming harvest Their appearance determines the date of Pasola (it is eight days after)
Preparations for Pasola
Many rites are performed before Pasola; these vary by region Story telling and gatherings are common. One area has insult & boxing matches, Each rider makes the hola that will be used for fighting and also practices, The night before each rider is cleansed and brings a chicken to the rato for a rite involving divination of chicken intestines. This foretells the rider’s success in battle and is also a sacrifice. Sacrifices must be made to the ancestors to gain their assistance
Nyale are also read the morning of, then a short Pasola battle is fought on the beach
Ratos must purify the arena and officially open Pasola by riding in on a nyale horse
They preside as the referees during the match
rider goes down |
A rato (in blue) goes to sort out the problem |
1.Males of puberty age (12) and above may participate
2.There are two sides from different villages for each battle
3.The riders leave their side, riding clockwise in an arc toward the other team
4.They try to draw out their opponents by taunting, shouting and challenging them with the hola
5.If the opposite team answers the challenge they ride out and the battle begins
6.Riders fling hola (blunt wooden spears) at each other trying to hit the riders from the opposite side
7.The riders complete their arc and return to their side and it starts all over again
8.The goal is to hit riders or their horses with the hola
9.Knocking one off his horse or causing injury are seen as positive and good for the community (and harvest)
10.Serious injury and even death is honorable and not punishable by law
11.Women and other non-participants cheer and jeer when their team scores a hit or their rider catches the other team’s hola
12.If a rider goes down or is hurt there are often problems with crowd control
13.The riders also must take care not to throw the hola into the crowd or at the wrong time (the rato are watching)
14.If hurt a rider must be cleansed with blessed water that will help him heal
15.Any vendettas must be settled the next year
About to throw the hola About to get hit!
A horse decorated for Pasola A talented rider stocks up on hola |
1.The main focus of Pasola is to ensure a bountiful harvest
2.Injury returns blood to earth, or to the ancestors and is a sacrifice in exchange for bountiful crops
3.Pasola may have evolved after internal conflict died down during the Dutch colonial period. The lack bloodshed and ethnic conflict may have created a perceived need for blood sacrifice (formerly heads were taken in battle)
4.It also serves as entertainment and mating ritual. Skilled riders have high status. Women call attention to themselves by cheering and jeering. Everyone dresses in their best and attends the event.
5.Though Pasola has evolved into somewhat of a tourist attraction, it remains important to Sumbanese culture
A megalithic tomb belonging to a rato on Sumba’s West coast |